life is short, the internet is vast, you have other blogs to read. so i'll make my posts short and sweet. no fluff, no fancy pants language. eat, approve, deny, next.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Singapore: Catalunya
Yes, your double-take didn't fail you. I chose to highlight this item from the elBulli-staffed restaurant, Catalunya.
Nothing says 'I love you...' like a head of cabbage. So much so that I'm almost tempted to pronounce cabbage, cab-baahhge.
Don't say I didn't warn you of Catalunya's charcoal-grilled cabbage. It's a side dish and yes it's no-frills. It's the forgotten one on the menu. But suddenly, it will win you over. You will forever be at its mercy.
At first bite, the smokiness of charcoal hits. Then comes a sour note that quickly mellows out to a sweet pickle finish, a transition that is as smooth and melt-in-your mouth as its texture. Whatever's on that grill spread, I want it.
Singapore: L'atelier de Joel Robuchon
Simply put, L'atelier in Hong Kong is superior in terms of taste and atmosphere. But hey, it's still beautiful modern French for a nice date out.
Translation: great for photography, great for that visual 'wow,' that impress-your-date-with-more-than-a-white-shirt something something.
(For those willing to shell out the extra dollars, I highly recommend Robuchon's proper dining room next door.)
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
Singapore: Eggs benedict at Nassim Hill Bakery
When I see poached eggs on small ciabatta rolls, I get an overwhelming urge to question the authenticity of this Benedict. Where is Benedict, and whom have you sent in his place?
Upon cutting through the short stack of single tomato and what looks like a mini potato, I again wondered why the chef chose to present it in this form. A ciabatta has no body. It is a porous bread, and its texture as well as the egg's gets lost in each bite. Thankfully the tomato or a ham if you so opt provides a contrast al dente bite.
The hollandaise was not its thick, buttery consistency which I guess on a lighter day is much appreciated. However the accompanying salad was densely dressed. All in all one must question the degree of difficulty in preparing this dish. It is minimal.
Order this dish for a healthier brunch option if your friend insists on their superior almond brioche, or maybe just get some poached eggs and toast from Killiney Kopitiam for less than five bucks.
Apologies, NHB, but my heart lies with a bread from another batter. Stay sweet, lay off the savories. And let's not even talk about your dinner pasta.
Nassim Hill Bakery
56 Tanglin Road
#01-03 Tanglin Post Office
+65 6835-1128Singapore: Eggs benedict at Baker & Cook
Whoever thought Eggs Benedict should be on a split English muffin is gravely mistaken. Sorry, Benedict.
Hello, two eggs on a slice of crisp toast. What a novel idea, and a well-crafted one, at that.
I will not waste time to crack egg jokes. Let us turn our attention to this beautifully plated symphony of omega-3s.
Eggs, smoked salmon, avocadoes and spinach. Definitely a power plate to lift one out of a hangover and a photogenic enough plate to satisfy your girlfriend's food Instagram itch.
This dig is a small corridor with stools and isn't much to gawk at, but sit and judge the passers-by or the walk-of-shamers from the window. Oh, and they sell delightful pastries and breads as well.
Baker & Cook
38A Martin Rd
+65 6636 5865
Chicago: Tomato macaroon at Allium
No, it's not a bad cake decoration.
Like cupcakes, macaroons are wasted on me. However, this one in particular converted two of my prejudices.
I now admit tomatoes are a fruit - and macaroons can be a menu asset.
Bordering sweet and laced with tartness and acidity, this tomato-shelled sweet with tomato jam filling is crisp, moist and not at all sugary and chewy. It embraces the tomato's umami quality and harnesses the macaroon's textural strengths.
The savories on this menu are also of the freshest pick in the garden. Like its tomato dessert, chef Kevin Hickey's menu utilizes seasonal ingredients and home-style cooking techniques. A dressed up place with a no-attitude menu.
Whenever in Chicago, check in at:
Allium
The Four Seasons Hotel
20 E Delaware Pl
Chicago, IL
+1 312-280-8800
Monday, August 6, 2012
Donut Hole
Lou Mitchell's, Chicago, IL.
Rating: 3.5/5
Beauty on the outside, tiny grease ball on the inside. Most importantly it's free-stand in line and look upset and a kind server will plop this in your palm in no time. This is a strictly preference focused donut hole. It has an addictive and porous outer shell that gives way to a spongy interior, making its texture the redeemable quality in its overall package. During the first chew, however, it is clear that this thing has been fried twice. Not my taste, but if oil's your thing-don't hold back.
Rating: 3.5/5
Beauty on the outside, tiny grease ball on the inside. Most importantly it's free-stand in line and look upset and a kind server will plop this in your palm in no time. This is a strictly preference focused donut hole. It has an addictive and porous outer shell that gives way to a spongy interior, making its texture the redeemable quality in its overall package. During the first chew, however, it is clear that this thing has been fried twice. Not my taste, but if oil's your thing-don't hold back.
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Pecan Sticky Bun
Stephanie's on Newbury, Boston, MA
Rating: 5/5!
There is beauty in pecan perfection. Not only is this visually appealing, its departure from the traditional gooey-topped aesthetic of the sticky bun is well received. The crushed pecans at the top sink all the way into the moist middle of the cylindrical bun. These soft and roasted bits meld with the luscious melted sugar in cinnamon folds. It is awesome texture and the homemade pastry finish at the bottom allows diners the same muffin-top-plucking satisfaction. Not too sweet but a little on the larger end. Bring a pal.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
More Thoughts...On Junk
Maybe it's just the feeling of a Tuesday that I cannot help but think about food - and forget that it's the start of the week.
Sometimes we need our dose of sugar. At other times we need junk. And when that time comes-make wise decisions:
Krispy Kreme over Dunkin' Donuts. America may run on Dunkin' but it really should feast on Krispy.
Red Mango over all other frozen yogurt chains. It's tart and just what probiotics should taste like.
Pop Tarts over Gushers. We really don't know better when we're children.
Twix trumps all other wafer snacks. It's the best glorified wafer in the world and who doesn't like that?
Dark chocolate-covered citrus, yogurt covered savories. It just works.
Rice pudding over chocolate pudding. Though am not sure if it takes more skill to cook rice than melt chocolate.
Sometimes we need our dose of sugar. At other times we need junk. And when that time comes-make wise decisions:
Krispy Kreme over Dunkin' Donuts. America may run on Dunkin' but it really should feast on Krispy.
Red Mango over all other frozen yogurt chains. It's tart and just what probiotics should taste like.
Pop Tarts over Gushers. We really don't know better when we're children.
Twix trumps all other wafer snacks. It's the best glorified wafer in the world and who doesn't like that?
Dark chocolate-covered citrus, yogurt covered savories. It just works.
Rice pudding over chocolate pudding. Though am not sure if it takes more skill to cook rice than melt chocolate.
Monday, July 30, 2012
Some Thoughts...
There are some things in life that should not go untasted.
Would also love to hear what your favorite dishes are if you are so inclined!
Buffalo bolognese.
Bison tartare with a yolk mixed in.
Turkey jerky-the original flavor, not the strange teriyaki glaze.
Corned beef hash. Hot with cheaply made pancakes and lots of maple syrup.
Buckwheat crepes with scrambled egg whites and chives.
Peanut M&M's.
Almond butter with apricot jam.
Oreos with peanut butter. This was on "The Parent Trap" and it really is good.
Rabbit. It's cute but the flavor converts the guilt trip into more of a stumbled-upon discovery.
Have a crumpet with pesto and ricotta.
Cold pizza in the morning.
Blueberry Pie
The Common Cup, West Rogers Park, Chicago, IL, USA.
Rating: 5/5
My weaknesses are pie crusts and muffin tops-not the literal version, though I may head there if this voracious appetite continues. This crust here marries a crumble and a graham cracker crust texture with a filling worthy of the moistest and purest melted muffin interior. That color says it all. Not dry and not buttery with a terribly unabashed cupful of blueberries that add texture and flavor. This-surprisingly- does not bore the palate.
Assorted Tacos-Outdoors
Big Star, Wicker Park/Bucktown, Chicago, IL, USA.
Rating: 4.5/5
Come to the take-out kiosk instead of waiting for three hours at the restaurant next door. Same quality, less attitude. Almost made it a five-star-winner but these tacos are small. Granted they are only a few bucks each and hardly wallet busting, the fact that a woman of my size has to eat two to be completely satisfied is silly. Choose from a soft tortilla pocket of pork, portobello, chicken or deep-fried tilapia. Their brilliantly green guacamole (not pictured) is some of the best in town with freshly chopped red onion and cilantro. Be prepared to binge on a pint of that.
Upside-down Blueberry Cake
Henrietta's Table, The Charles Hotel, Harvard Sq., Boston.
Rating: 4/5
Look at that blueberry top-or bottom. Never have I seen such a magnificently generous, gelatinous pool of the fruit in a dense little cake. This is great flavor in a moist, compact vessel. Not too sweet, it celebrates the purity and cooked texture of berry belly. The only negative is its size. Sharing? Out of the question.
Saturday, June 16, 2012
Almond Croissant
Tiong Bahru Bakery, Eng Neo Ave., Singapore.
Rating: 3.5/5
Much to diner's dismay, this almond croissant does not come close to the iconic regular croissant that draws the village-sized crowd. Though it looks tempting, mouthwatering and disgustingly decadent, it remains nothing but a mirage. Something delicious only by design. However, if sugar and the texture and taste of melted marzipan is what you seek, this pile fulfills that wish in a gratifying way. Not to be eaten by fingers, a fork and knife could be the best way to tackle this heap of butter, film, almonds and powdered sugar (do you see it?). A comforting blend that begs to be gotten over with, if you are mentally strong enough.
Rating: 3.5/5
Much to diner's dismay, this almond croissant does not come close to the iconic regular croissant that draws the village-sized crowd. Though it looks tempting, mouthwatering and disgustingly decadent, it remains nothing but a mirage. Something delicious only by design. However, if sugar and the texture and taste of melted marzipan is what you seek, this pile fulfills that wish in a gratifying way. Not to be eaten by fingers, a fork and knife could be the best way to tackle this heap of butter, film, almonds and powdered sugar (do you see it?). A comforting blend that begs to be gotten over with, if you are mentally strong enough.
Cooking Up...
Rabbit with olives, portobellos, and herbs
Outcome: 5/5
Suggest: Overestimate the amount of stock the recipe calls for
I pulled out the pink, limp and seemingly helpless combination of flesh, bone and fat from the plastic bag and finally realized: this is a real. One of those rare moments in life where one truly feels a barbarian connection to food. Fear and guilt was finally overcome when I heard the muffled, cackling sear of rabbit flesh on pan. There was no turning back.
Thankfully, the sacrifice came out to a beautiful, balsamic symphony. The rosemary, bay leaves and thyme from the home garden infused so well with the Italian olives and mushrooms that had been reducing in white wine sauce for an hour. All white meat, all good meat, all delicious.
Recipe courtesy of Tru's Rick Trumanto and his cookbook,Osteria.
Tuesday, June 5, 2012
Kurobuta Pork Char Siu Bao
Cherry Garden, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Singapore.
Rating: 4.5/5
Being someone who doesn't agree with butchering high-end ingredients such as Wagyu or Kobe Beef sliders, or Hokkaido Crab tempura (yes, Nobu, that's you), this little pillowy bao has turned me around slightly. Due to the quality of the pork, the characteristic umami sweetness of this sauce was applied conservatively, allowing the character of the meat to come forward. Its texture is also excellent, having more bite and body than the chewiness we get with a cheaper, fattier type of meat. The approachable 2.5in diameter size also contains a favorable filling-to-bun ratio, so be ready to pop a few.
Fried Carrot Cake w Dark Soy
Singapore Food Trail at Singapore Flyer
Rating: 5/5
This is a stellar. Well worth the trek, this Asian 'carrot cake' has a well balanced amount of diced turnips, complementing the similarly cubed, noodle-like flour pellets. A generous amount of spring onion tops the dish, serving to cut through the umami explosion of soy sauce and fried egg. The sweetness of dark soy sauce as opposed to its lighter cousin also adds an addictive sweet-salty slant to this local favorite.
Sunday, May 20, 2012
Journey: Zanotti Ristorante in Bangkok
It is always a delight when the carriers of your dish or drink can add to the experience. Capping off a delicious meal of hand-made pasta spun with prosciutto, enveloped with walnut sauce, and hunks of burrata with baby tomatoes, this single espresso has been poured into a beautifully enameled special edition illy cup. Accompanying it is the tiniest ameretti cookie, that actually is whole, not a broken off bit of one. Again, packaging and presentation is 50% of the meal. Sometimes 60%. Which begs the question, do you eat more with your eyes, or with your taste buds? I for one would like to say the latter, but am definitely an ordering sucker for the former.
Journey: Mini Yogurt Pot with Fruit Compote
Rating: 4/5
I am completely sold on presentation. It is always an added bonus when something in an otherwise safely assembled international breakfast buffet in a hotel offers up a little package that brings about some kid-like glee in a diner. Nestled individually in a mound of crushed ice, choose between a peach or strawberry covered yogurt concoction. Concoction being the operative word, as its texture is somewhere between Greek yogurt and Meiji Japanese milk yogurt. Aside from the slightly sweeter fruit on top, the yogurt itself has good body and a light finish.
I am completely sold on presentation. It is always an added bonus when something in an otherwise safely assembled international breakfast buffet in a hotel offers up a little package that brings about some kid-like glee in a diner. Nestled individually in a mound of crushed ice, choose between a peach or strawberry covered yogurt concoction. Concoction being the operative word, as its texture is somewhere between Greek yogurt and Meiji Japanese milk yogurt. Aside from the slightly sweeter fruit on top, the yogurt itself has good body and a light finish.
Journey: Open-faced Crepes with Rice Pudding
Rating: 4/5
Now if you ever feel lost in a Thai food hall, a concept slightly misleading (differing from the Singapore hawker concept), make your way over to this little stall serving up 1.5in x 1.5in delicate little napkins of sweet tissue-thin carbs. Skillfully nestled in the middle, find a surprisingly generous dollop of rice pudding that has been thickened with coconut milk. With about 8-10 fillings to choose from, indecisive diners will not need to worry, as every pairing seems a perfect fit. However, this thick and coconut milk does get overpowering after two servings, which is a shame since the outer layers are so blissfully edible.
Now if you ever feel lost in a Thai food hall, a concept slightly misleading (differing from the Singapore hawker concept), make your way over to this little stall serving up 1.5in x 1.5in delicate little napkins of sweet tissue-thin carbs. Skillfully nestled in the middle, find a surprisingly generous dollop of rice pudding that has been thickened with coconut milk. With about 8-10 fillings to choose from, indecisive diners will not need to worry, as every pairing seems a perfect fit. However, this thick and coconut milk does get overpowering after two servings, which is a shame since the outer layers are so blissfully edible.
Monday, April 23, 2012
Panda Bread
Bread Societé, Various Locations, Taipei
Rating: 4.5/5
Yes, this is not a gourmet food item. But if any bread from a chain bakery should be revisited, this Panda Bread will definitely have you chasing for more. Not only does it look adorable, its substance and interior also echoes a strong, yeasty sense of character. Constructed using a double-shell technique, the denser white layer has a satisfying bite to it, while the chocolate bun that it envelops has a soft, spongey cocoa finish. The middle houses a spoonful of mealy sweet custard that you wish you had more of to last through each bite.
Rating: 4.5/5
Yes, this is not a gourmet food item. But if any bread from a chain bakery should be revisited, this Panda Bread will definitely have you chasing for more. Not only does it look adorable, its substance and interior also echoes a strong, yeasty sense of character. Constructed using a double-shell technique, the denser white layer has a satisfying bite to it, while the chocolate bun that it envelops has a soft, spongey cocoa finish. The middle houses a spoonful of mealy sweet custard that you wish you had more of to last through each bite.
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