Thursday, February 14, 2013

Singapore: Catalunya


Yes, your double-take didn't fail you. I chose to highlight this item from the elBulli-staffed restaurant, Catalunya.

Nothing says 'I love you...' like a head of cabbage. So much so that I'm almost tempted to pronounce cabbage, cab-baahhge.

Don't say I didn't warn you of Catalunya's charcoal-grilled cabbage. It's a side dish and yes it's no-frills. It's the forgotten one on the menu. But suddenly, it will win you over. You will forever be at its mercy.

At first bite, the smokiness of charcoal hits. Then comes a sour note that quickly mellows out to a sweet pickle finish, a transition that is as smooth and melt-in-your mouth as its texture. Whatever's on that grill spread, I want it.

Singapore: L'atelier de Joel Robuchon


Simply put, L'atelier in Hong Kong is superior in terms of taste and atmosphere. But hey, it's still beautiful modern French for a nice date out.

Translation: great for photography, great for that visual 'wow,' that impress-your-date-with-more-than-a-white-shirt something something.

(For those willing to shell out the extra dollars, I highly recommend Robuchon's proper dining room next door.)

All things considered, this French take on a Spanish tapa was the palate winner. Taking the salt out of the salt cod, bacalao, this perfectly tender capsicum is the perfect blanket for an equally delicate shredded fish mash. If fish had bones, this would fall right off it.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Singapore: Eggs benedict at Nassim Hill Bakery


When I see poached eggs on small ciabatta rolls, I get an overwhelming urge to question the authenticity of this Benedict. Where is Benedict, and whom have you sent in his place?

Upon cutting through the short stack of single tomato and what looks like a mini potato, I again wondered why the chef chose to present it in this form. A ciabatta has no body. It is a porous bread, and its texture as well as the egg's gets lost in each bite. Thankfully the tomato or a ham if you so opt provides a contrast al dente bite.

The hollandaise was not its thick, buttery consistency which I guess on a lighter day is much appreciated. However the accompanying salad was densely dressed. All in all one must question the degree of difficulty in preparing this dish. It is minimal.

Order this dish for a healthier brunch option if your friend insists on their superior almond brioche, or maybe just get some poached eggs and toast from Killiney Kopitiam for less than five bucks.

Apologies, NHB, but my heart lies with a bread from another batter. Stay sweet, lay off the savories. And let's not even talk about your dinner pasta.

Nassim Hill Bakery
56 Tanglin Road
#01-03 Tanglin Post Office
+65 6835-1128

Singapore: Eggs benedict at Baker & Cook


Whoever thought Eggs Benedict should be on a split English muffin is gravely mistaken. Sorry, Benedict.

Hello, two eggs on a slice of crisp toast. What a novel idea, and a well-crafted one, at that.

I will not waste time to crack egg jokes. Let us turn our attention to this beautifully plated symphony of omega-3s.

Eggs, smoked salmon, avocadoes and spinach. Definitely a power plate to lift one out of a hangover and a photogenic enough plate to satisfy your girlfriend's food Instagram itch.

This dig is a small corridor with stools and isn't much to gawk at, but sit and judge the passers-by or the walk-of-shamers from the window. Oh, and they sell delightful pastries and breads as well.

Baker & Cook
38A Martin Rd
+65 6636 5865

Chicago: Tomato macaroon at Allium


No, it's not a bad cake decoration.

Like cupcakes, macaroons are wasted on me. However, this one in particular converted two of my prejudices.

I now admit tomatoes are a fruit - and macaroons can be a menu asset.

Bordering sweet and laced with tartness and acidity, this tomato-shelled sweet with tomato jam filling is crisp, moist and not at all sugary and chewy. It embraces the tomato's umami quality and harnesses the macaroon's textural strengths.

The savories on this menu are also of the freshest pick in the garden. Like its tomato dessert, chef Kevin Hickey's menu utilizes seasonal ingredients and home-style cooking techniques. A dressed up place with a no-attitude menu.

Whenever in Chicago, check in at:

Allium
The Four Seasons Hotel
20 E Delaware Pl
Chicago, IL
+1 312-280-8800